Ha Long Bay revisited (The Telegraph)

In February of this year, one of Vietnam’s most popular destinations, Halong Bay, received the worst possible publicity when an excursion boat sank, killing 12 tourists, including one Briton. In September 2009, five tourists, including two from Britain, died when an excursion boat went down in a storm. These tragedies came as no surprise to critics of this increasingly competitive and crowded market. 

Halong Bay is one of the world’s most striking natural wonders – a surreal seascape of conical limestone islands and dreamy emerald waters, three hours’ drive from Hanoi. Tourist agencies in Hanoi’s old town vie with each other to sell often ludicrously cheap all-in deals that include transfers from and back to the city and a night or two aboard a replica junk. The boat that sank in February did so at night, while at anchor. According to reports, the captain and chief engineer face lengthy jail terms for negligence and the boat company has been fined and suspended. The authorities are also claiming that safety procedures have been tightened up on all boats, but why take the chance? 

At the dirt-cheap end of the market, the Halong Bay tours continue to be a dispiriting, conveyor-belt experience. It is definitely worth paying more if you can afford it, for both safety and comfort. I avoided Halong Bay altogether and booked a one-night/two-day tour of the Bai Tu Long islands a little way to the east. The scenery of limestone peaks – including caves and a floating fishing village – is every bit as spectacular, the waters were far less crowded and the boat itself, the luxurious Red Dragon 1, was extremely impressive, with five air-conditioned cabins, great food and delightful and competent staff.  

After an eight-course lunch that included hot and sour seafood soup, grilled clams and pan-fried squid, I was free to relax on a sunbed with a cold beer and work out what it was exactly that these remarkable views made me think of. It took another beer to get there 

Source: http://www.telegraph.co.uk